Which Tires to Put Chains On and How to Install Them Right

I’ll never forget the first time I pulled over on the side of a mountain pass with a brand-new set of tire chains and absolutely zero idea what I was doing. Cars were whipping past me, snow was piling up on my shoulders, and the instruction sheet that came in the box was already soaked and tearing apart. It took me nearly 40 minutes to get those chains on — and I later realized I’d put them on the wrong axle. That experience taught me two critical lessons: know *which* tires to chain up before you leave home, and practice installing them in your driveway when the weather is dry. I’ve since driven with chains across multiple mountain passes in Colorado, California, and Washington, and I’ve tested chains on front-wheel-drive sedans, rear-wheel-drive trucks, and all-wheel-drive SUVs. This guide is everything I wish someone had told me before that miserable first attempt.

Why Tire Chains Still Matter in 2024

I know what some of you are thinking: “I have all-season tires” or “My SUV has all-wheel drive — do I really need chains?” I’ve heard these arguments countless times, and I’ve also seen those same vehicles stuck in ditches on I-70 outside the Eisenhower Tunnel. The reality is that tire chains provide a level of traction on packed snow and ice that no tire alone can match. In many US states — California, Colorado, Oregon, Washington, and others — chains are legally required during certain conditions, and you can be fined or turned away at chain checkpoints without them. Even if you have the best winter tires money can buy, carrying a set of chains is cheap insurance. I keep a set in the trunk of every vehicle I drive from November through April.

Which Tires Do You Put Chains On?

This is the single most important question to answer before you even buy chains, and getting it wrong can make your vehicle harder to control — not easier. The fundamental rule is simple: chains go on the drive wheels. But let me break it down by drivetrain type, because the details matter.

Front-Wheel Drive (FWD)

If you drive a front-wheel-drive car — and the majority of sedans, crossovers, and minivans sold in the US are FWD — your chains go on the front tires. The front axle handles both steering and power delivery, so chaining those tires gives you traction where it counts most. In my experience driving a Honda Accord and a Toyota Camry with chains on the front, the improvement in hill-climbing ability on snow is dramatic. I’ve seen people mistakenly chain the rear tires on a FWD car, and it does almost nothing for forward traction. Worse, it can create an imbalance that makes the car feel unpredictable when braking.

Rear-Wheel Drive (RWD)

For rear-wheel-drive vehicles — many pickup trucks, sports cars, and some larger sedans — chains go on the rear tires. This is especially important for trucks. I tested chains on a Ford F-150 (RWD configuration) during a winter trip over Snoqualmie Pass in Washington, and the difference was night and day. Without chains, the rear end wanted to swing out on every curve. With chains, the truck tracked straight and climbed confidently. If you drive an RWD vehicle, I also recommend adding weight (like sandbags) over the rear axle in addition to chains. That combination made a huge difference in my testing.

All-Wheel Drive (AWD) and Four-Wheel Drive (4WD)

This is where it gets a little more nuanced, and it’s the question I get asked most often. For AWD and 4WD vehicles, check your owner’s manual first. Most manufacturers — including Subaru, Toyota, and Honda — recommend installing chains on the front tires. Some recommend all four tires if conditions are severe. A few manufacturers, particularly some older 4WD truck platforms, specify the rear axle. And certain vehicles (like some Audi models) have restrictions on chain use altogether due to tight wheel well clearances. In my experience, when the manual says “front,” go with front. When I’ve chained just the front tires on my Subaru Outback, the handling felt balanced and predictable. The one time I tried rear-only on that same vehicle, the front end washed out on turns. If you’re running a full-time 4WD truck with a transfer case, many manufacturers suggest all four wheels if you can. When in doubt, call your dealer.

What Happens If You Put Chains on the Wrong Tires?

I want to emphasize this because I made this exact mistake myself, and it’s more dangerous than most people realize. If you chain the non-drive wheels, you’re essentially giving traction to tires that aren’t providing power. On a FWD car with chains on the rear, the front tires still spin freely on ice while the back tires grip — creating a situation where the car wants to understeer uncontrollably. On an RWD vehicle with chains on the front, you get the opposite problem: the front grips well for steering, but the rear has no traction. The back end swings out easily, especially on curves or when braking. Either scenario is worse than having no chains at all, because you develop a false sense of security. You think you’re protected, so you drive faster than conditions allow, and then the unchained drive wheels let go.

Types of Tire Chains: What I Recommend

Not all chains are created equal. Over the years, I’ve tested traditional link chains, cable chains, and automatic/self-tightening chains. Here’s how they compare:

Chain Type	Price Range	Traction	Ease of Install	Best For
Traditional Link Chains	$30–$80	Excellent	Moderate	Heavy snow, trucks, SUVs
Cable Chains	$40–$100	Good	Easy	Low-clearance vehicles, sedans
Self-Tightening Chains	$70–$150	Very Good	Easiest	Anyone who wants convenience
Textile/Fabric Chains (AutoSock)	$80–$130	Moderate	Very Easy	Emergency use, short distances

My Top Pick: Self-Tightening Chains

For most everyday drivers, I recommend self-tightening chains like the Security Chain Company Super Z6 or the Peerless Auto-Trac. These are widely available at Walmart, AutoZone, and Amazon, and they’ve consistently been the easiest to install in my testing. The self-tightening mechanism is a game-changer. With traditional chains, you have to stop and re-tighten after driving a short distance. Self-tightening chains use a ratchet system that keeps tension automatically. During my time using the Super Z6 on several winter trips, I never had to stop and adjust.

If You Have Low Clearance

Many modern cars have very little space between the tire and the fender or strut. If your owner’s manual says “use low-profile chains only” or specifies a maximum chain thickness, cable chains are your best bet. I used cable chains on a Mazda3 with notoriously tight wheel wells, and they fit without rubbing. Traditional link chains would not have worked on that vehicle.

How to Choose the Right Chain Size

Tire chains are sized to match your tire size, and getting the right fit is non-negotiable. A chain that’s too small won’t fit over the tire, and one that’s too large can come loose and damage your vehicle. Here’s how to find your size:

• Check the sidewall of your tire for the size code (e.g., 225/65R17).
• Look at the chain packaging — every box lists compatible tire sizes.
• If you’re between sizes, go with the smaller option for a tighter fit.
• When in doubt, use the manufacturer’s online sizing tool (most major chain brands have one).

I always double-check by physically test-fitting chains on my tires before I need them. This takes five minutes in your garage and can save you from a major headache on the road.

How to Install Tire Chains: Step-by-Step

Alright, here’s the part that intimidates most people — and honestly, it intimidated me too the first time. But after installing chains dozens of times across different vehicles and chain types, I can tell you it’s straightforward once you’ve done it twice. I’m going to walk you through the process for the most common type: self-tightening/cable-style chains. The fundamentals are the same for traditional link chains, with some minor differences I’ll note.

What You’ll Need

• A set of properly sized tire chains
• Gloves (waterproof if possible — your hands will thank you)
• A ground mat or piece of cardboard to kneel on
• A small flashlight or headlamp (you’ll probably be doing this when visibility is low)
• Your vehicle’s owner’s manual

Step 1: Find a Safe, Flat Area

Pull completely off the road. If you’re at a chain-up area (common on California mountain passes), use it. Turn on your hazard lights. Make sure you’re on a relatively flat surface — installing chains on a slope is miserable and dangerous. I learned this the hard way when I tried chaining up on the shoulder of Highway 50 near Lake Tahoe on a slight incline. The car wanted to roll, and I was fighting gravity the entire time. Now I always seek out a designated chain-up area or a flat parking lot.

Step 2: Untangle and Lay Out the Chains

Pull the chains out of the bag and lay them flat on the ground. Untangle any twisted links or cables. You want the chain to lay in a neat pattern with the hooks and fasteners clearly visible. Hold the chain up by the longest edge — this is usually the side that goes behind the tire. Make sure there are no twists. Twisted chains won’t seat properly and can damage your tire or vehicle.

Step 3: Drape the Chain Over the Tire

This is the step that trips people up most, so pay attention. Place the chain over the top of the tire, centering it so that equal amounts hang down on both sides. The smooth side of any hooks or fasteners should face inward (toward the tire) to prevent scratching your wheels. Now, tuck the chain behind the tire as far as you can reach. You want the connecting cable or chain to sit behind the tire, close to the ground.

Step 4: Connect the Inside (Back) Fastener First

Reach behind the tire and connect the inner fastener. This is usually a hook or a cable end with a quick-connect clasp. On most self-tightening chains, it’s a simple hook-and-ring connection. This is the most awkward part of the process because you’re reaching behind the tire. I recommend doing this by feel — look at the fastener before you tuck it behind the tire so you know what you’re connecting. Once the back is connected, the chain is essentially draped around the tire in a circle.

Step 5: Connect the Outer Fasteners

Now come to the front of the tire and connect the outer cable or chain. Pull the chain snug and hook the outer fastener. There’s usually a tensioning cam or lever that tightens the outer cable. At this point, the chain should be loosely wrapped around your tire but connected at both the inside and outside edges.

Step 6: Tighten and Adjust

For self-tightening chains, engage the ratchet mechanism. For traditional chains, you’ll have rubber tensioners (bungee-style devices) that hook across the chain face to pull everything tight. Once tightened, drive forward about 15–20 feet and stop. Get out and inspect the chains. Look for:

• Even spacing of the cross-chains across the tread
• No chains rubbing on the fender, brake line, or strut
• Secure fasteners that haven’t popped loose

With self-tightening chains, the ratchet will take up any remaining slack automatically. With traditional chains, you may need to re-tighten the rubber tensioners after this short drive.

Step 7: Repeat on the Second Tire

Do the same process on the other drive-side tire. Both drive wheels need to be chained for balanced traction. In total, after several practice runs, I can install a pair of self-tightening chains in about 10–15 minutes. My first time took nearly 40 minutes, so don’t be discouraged if it takes you a while on your first attempt.

Common Mistakes I See (and Have Made)

After years of driving with chains and helping friends and family install theirs, here are the most common errors:

1. Not Practicing at Home

I cannot stress this enough. The worst time to learn how tire chains work is on the side of a snowy highway at night. Take 20 minutes on a dry weekend to practice installation. You’ll thank yourself later.

2. Driving Too Fast

The maximum safe speed with chains is typically 25–30 mph. I’ve seen people merge onto the highway doing 55 mph with chains on, and the sound alone — metal whipping against pavement and fender — should tell you something is very wrong. Chains are designed for low-speed traction. Exceeding speed limits will destroy the chains, damage your tires, and potentially damage your vehicle’s body panels and brake lines.

3. Leaving Chains on Bare Pavement

Once you’re past the snow and back on clear, dry road, pull over and remove the chains immediately. Driving on bare pavement with chains accelerates tire wear, destroys the chains, and damages the road surface. I destroyed a set of cable chains during my early driving days by leaving them on for about 10 miles of dry highway after a snowy section. The cables frayed and snapped. Lesson learned.

4. Buying the Wrong Size

I’ve seen people at chain-up areas discover their chains don’t fit because they bought the wrong size or because they recently changed tire sizes without updating their chains. Always verify your current tire size before buying.

5. Forgetting to Check Clearance

Some vehicles simply don’t have enough clearance for traditional link chains. If you force them on, the chains will rub against brake components or the inner fender. This can cause serious damage. Cable chains or textile “chains” (like AutoSock) are the solution for tight-clearance vehicles.

State Laws You Need to Know

Chain requirements vary by state, and enforcement can be strict — especially in mountain areas. Here’s a quick overview of chain laws in the states where they’re most commonly required:

• California: Caltrans enforces chain controls (R1, R2, R3 levels) on mountain highways. R2 requires chains on all vehicles except 4WD/AWD with snow tires. R3 means chains required on all vehicles, no exceptions.
• Colorado: The Traction Law (Code 15) requires adequate tires or chains on I-70 in the mountains. Passenger vehicle chain law (Code 16) requires chains on all vehicles.
• Oregon: ODOT can require chains on mountain passes. “Chains required” means all vehicles except those with approved traction tires and AWD/4WD (with some conditions).
• Washington: WSDOT enforces chain requirements on passes like Snoqualmie and Stevens. Even AWD vehicles must carry chains.
• Nevada: Chain controls are common on I-80 over Donner Summit near the California border.

Fines for non-compliance range from $25 to over $500 depending on the state. In California, if you block traffic because you don’t have chains and cause a closure, the fine can exceed $1,000. In my experience, chain checkpoints are staffed and enforced. I’ve been stopped at chain controls on Highway 50, I-80, and I-70 multiple times. They will check, and they will turn you around.

Tire Chains vs. Snow Tires: Do You Need Both?

This is a question I get constantly, and my answer is: they serve different purposes. Snow tires (winter tires) are designed for sustained winter driving. They use softer rubber compounds and specialized tread patterns that maintain grip in cold temperatures, light snow, and wet conditions. If you live in a region with extended winters, I strongly recommend a dedicated set of winter tires. I’ve reviewed many sets on this site, and the difference they make compared to all-season tires is substantial. Tire chains are for severe conditions — heavy snow, packed ice on steep grades, and situations where even snow tires aren’t enough. They’re a temporary measure, not something you drive on all winter. The ideal setup for mountain driving is snow tires with chains carried in the trunk. In most states, having proper snow tires (with the 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol) lets you avoid chaining up until conditions are truly severe. But you should still have chains available. I’ve driven with snow tires alone on moderate mountain passes and felt completely confident. But when I hit a section of unplowed road during a heavy storm on Loveland Pass in Colorado, I was grateful to have chains to throw on over those snow tires. The combination was unstoppable.

Can You Use Chains on All-Season Tires?

Yes, absolutely. Chains work on all-season tires, winter tires, and even all-terrain tires. The chain provides traction regardless of the tire underneath it. That said, if you’re running all-season tires in serious snow without chains, you’re likely going to struggle. All-season tires are a compromise in every condition — acceptable in light snow but inadequate when things get heavy. Chains on all-season tires will give you far better traction than all-season tires alone. I tested this directly by driving the same vehicle (a Hyundai Sonata on OEM all-season tires) through a snowy parking lot with and without chains. Without chains, the car couldn’t climb a gentle incline. With chains, it walked up effortlessly. It’s that dramatic.

How to Remove Tire Chains

Removal is faster and easier than installation. Here’s my process:

• Pull over to a safe, flat area.
• Unhook the outer fasteners and release the tensioning mechanism.
• Unhook the inner (rear) fastener.
• Pull the chain forward off the top of the tire and let it fall to the ground.
• Pull the chain completely out from under the tire.
• Lay the chains out, shake off excess snow and debris, and fold them back into their storage bag.

The whole removal process takes me about five minutes per tire. I recommend drying your chains when you get home — just lay them out in the garage. Storing wet chains promotes rust, and rusty chains weaken and break faster.

My Recommended Tire Chains for US Drivers

Based on my testing across multiple vehicles and conditions, here are the chains I recommend most often:

Best Overall: Security Chain Company Super Z6

Self-tightening, easy to install, and available for a wide range of tire sizes. I’ve used these on SUVs and sedans, and they’ve performed flawlessly. They typically run $70–$120 depending on tire size. Available at most auto parts stores and Amazon.

Best Budget: Peerless Auto-Trac Light

A solid self-tightening option at a lower price point ($50–$80). They’re a bit lighter-duty than the Super Z6, but for occasional mountain pass driving, they’re more than adequate. I used these on a Kia Optima during several winter trips and had zero issues.

Best for Low Clearance: Thule/König CG-9

These are premium cable chains designed specifically for vehicles with minimal wheel well clearance. They’re pricier ($90–$140) but beautifully engineered. If your car has less than 1 inch of clearance, these are the ones to get.

Best Emergency Option: AutoSock

These textile “socks” slip over your tires and provide moderate traction. They’re not as effective as metal chains on steep, icy grades, but they’re incredibly easy to install and legal in most chain-control situations. At $80–$130 per pair, they’re a great backup to keep in your trunk. I tested these on a Honda Civic, and they got me through a surprise snowstorm on a mountain road without incident.

Tips From Years of Chaining Up in the Real World

Let me close with some practical advice that doesn’t show up in instruction manuals: Buy chains before you need them. Chains sell out fast at hardware stores near mountain passes once storms hit. I’ve seen prices double at the last gas station before a chain checkpoint. Buy early, buy online, and keep them in your car all winter. Carry a cheap tarp or trash bag. Kneeling on snow-covered ground in jeans is miserable. A garbage bag under your knees keeps you drier and warmer. Wear headlamp, not a handheld flashlight. You need both hands free. A $10 headlamp from any hardware store makes nighttime chain installation vastly easier. If someone at a chain-up area offers to install your chains for $20–$40, be cautious. Some roadside chain installers are skilled and helpful, but others will install chains improperly. If you know how to do it yourself, you’re better off. Inspect your chains before every winter season. Look for broken links, frayed cables, cracked rubber tensioners, and seized ratchets. Replace worn components before you need them. Don’t forget to practice. I say this multiple times because it’s that important. Twenty minutes in your driveway on a Saturday will save you an hour of frustration and stress on the side of a mountain. Driving with tire chains isn’t complicated once you understand the basics. Know your drivetrain, buy the right size, practice at home, and always carry them when you head to the mountains. That simple preparation can be the difference between getting home safely and spending the night in your car on the side of the road. Stay safe out there.

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